Showing posts with label temples. Show all posts
Showing posts with label temples. Show all posts

Friday, January 25, 2013

One night in Bangkok...

Ok, it was two nights. Just enough to get a taste for the city.

Bangkok is 2.5 hour flight from Singapore, so the BF and I headed there for a weekend in December. Though north of Singapore, Bangkok is still a tropical climate, so the weather was warm and wet while there, but pleasant for touring around the city.

We arrived on a Friday night and toured around our neighborhood of Sukhumvit. This area is known for its social opportunities, restaurants, cafes, bars, hotels and shops. Though it lacks some of the seedier activity that Bangkok is known to have, as depicted in movies like The Hangover: Part II. So we strolled past some street vendor shops that were set up along the sidewalk to a lovely restaurant serving authentic local cuisine. We ordered some popular dishes, like pad thai and Thai-style crab, then ordered some other stuff that we werent sure about, but wanted to try. It was all delicious and we went back to the hotel full and happy. 

The next day, we toured around our neighborhood again and then headed to the Chatuchak Market. Open only on weekends, it has stalls selling everything from porcelain handicrafts and hammered steel decor (bowls and candlesticks and the like) to paintings, ceramics, woven goods, bags, clever t-shirts and knock-off purses. It also has a wet market area, where fruits and vegetables and meats and fish are sold. Rows and rows and rows and rows of stalls and stores. It may not be the world's biggest market, but it certainly felt that way. We spent all afternoon there and only covered a fraction of the market. I'm not sure what fraction of the market, because I'm not sure we saw more than one edge of the market - the end from which we entered.

We had a great time. We bought Christmas presents and souvenirs and found some great things. We got home with a mind-boggling amount of Thai silk scarves. It. Was. Awesome.

After shopping, we took a harrowing taxi ride back to our hotel. We had heard that auto traffic in Bangkok was a nightmare, so we took public transit to get to the market. But with our bags and bundles (srsly. we bought a lot of scarves.) we decided to take a taxi back. Our taxi driver tells us he's going to take us to a tailor shop on the way back to the hotel. When we told him we werent interested in stopping by the tailor shop, he upped his fare. Interesting little racket he's got going there..... We proceed to sit in traffic in who knows what part of town, as we watch the gas gauge on the vehicle get closer to empty. At some point, not that far from our hotel, the taxi driver pulls over to the side of the road, hops out, runs over to some bushes and relieves himself. He then hops back into the taxi, apologizes for the delay and we're off again. Now, I have taken many a taxi in America that has had some strange occurrences, but that was my first roadside potty break. 

We finally get back to the hotel, shower, change and head out for dinner. We had scheduled an early morning city tour and a 6am wake-up call, so we called it a night and headed to bed pretty early. 

First thing the next day we met our tour guide and headed out for a tour of the city, starting with a boat ride through the canals and rivers through town. I love a good boat ride, especially one where we get to see interesting architecture of paddle-up homes and temples, people paddling their wares to market and giant (I mean GIANT) catfish bobbing through the water. 
After an hour on the water, we headed off to see the Grand Palace, the Royal Museum and some of the country's major temples.

The temples of Thailand have a unique look that makes them recognizable and different than the temples of Indonesia or Cambodia or Malaysia. The temple structures and stupas are ornate, with decorative buttresses, towers and pillars and are covered in mosaic patterns of shiny metal, glass and mirrors. Cambodia stupas have similar formats, but are more likely made of carved stone or clay and sometimes include mosaic design made of bits of ceramic. I know this now. Did not know this before.


In the key temples (or Wats, as they're called in Thai), there is a rule that arms and legs (of men and women) must be covered. But it was very warm in the city, so we did not wear long pants and sleeves for our touring and covered up just for the temple. I was not prepared for this and had not packed my zip-off pants, so I rented a wrap skirt from a lovely street vendor outside the temple in order to meet the dress requirements and gain entrance. That's right, I said rented. A cottage industry has sprung up outside the temple, to rent proper clothing to tourists. 



While wearing the very colorful wrap skirt and touring the temples, we saw the emerald Buddha wearing his winter garb (he has multiple outfits and there is an outfit-changing ceremony every few months when the Buddha's wardrobe is changed). 



We saw a very large, very shiny reclining Buddha that was so large, they had to build the building in which it's housed around the Buddha.


And we saw a giant gong. It looked like something out of the old 70's TV show, "The Gong Show" and of course, the BF wanted to pose with it. He may or may not have also said he would love to have something like that in his house...... But for now, we'll have to make do with a pic of him pretending to hit the gong. (In the temple, they don't let tourists hit the gong.....but if he had one at home, the BF could hit his own gong. Maybe that's why he wants one....)







And pretty much the whole time we were touring I kept singing "Shall we dance" and "There's no place like home" in my head, expecting to see Yul Brynner pop up and shout "Et cetera, et cetera, et cetera!" Because up til this, the movie "The King And I" was the basis of my knowledge of Thai history.....And turns out, it's an excellent period piece that shows much of the Thai culture and history.

Anyway, after a long day touring the city, we changed and headed out to dinner at a rooftop bar we heard was worth it. And we were not disappointed. Above Eleven, the bar at the top of a hotel in the Sukhumvit neighborhood. It has delicious drinks, delicious fusion food and the best bathroom I've ever been in. Seriously, the bathroom had gorgeous views of the city from the stalls and the sink area. And the views from our table weren't bad either.



After an action-packed (though PG) visit to Bangkok, we headed back to the airport and back to Singapore. At no point did I feel the devil walking next to me, though I did feel a bit like the world was my oyster....

Monday, January 21, 2013

Malaysia: Truly Asia (Batu Caves)

Malaysia borders Singapore to the north; the two countries are separated only by a narrow strait and are connected by a bridge. Because you are entering a new country, you must visit the immigration checkpoints on either side of the bridge, but you can drive across the border.


So, the BF and I have taken a couple of weekend trips to Malaysia, to check out different areas of the country. We visited KL (the capital of Malaysia) and toured around town for a couple of days. In addition to the historical and beautiful sights of the town, we ventured outside of the city a bit to see the Batu Caves.


The Batu Caves are a Hindu temple in the side of the mountain. They are considered the most important Hindu shrine outside of India, an interesting claim to fame in mostly-Muslim Malaysia. During the Thaipusam festival in the spring, THOUSANDS of people travel to the Batu Caves to celebrate the holiday. We were there in November, so there were merely hundreds of people (mostly tourists) visiting the temples. 


The first things we noticed on arriving at the caves were the GINORMOUS statues of key Hindu personalities guarding the entrance to the Caves.


Hanuman, the monkey god of Hinduism, stands 15 meters (that's 50 feet) tall outside the entrance to the caves, in full color and ceremonial garb. Hanuman guards the Rama caves, with depicts the stories of Lord Ramayana. To the right of Hanuman is a 43 meter (140 feet) tall Lord Marugan statue, which guards the entrance to the main caves, or the temple caves. We walked past the statue and climbed the 272 steps up into the caves to view the various shrines within its walls. 


Along the 272 step walkway up to the caves, there were dozens of wild monkeys roaming freely about. The little buggers were kinda cute, but definitely scary and creepy, so I tried to keep my distance, while the BF took pictures. The monkeys LOVED the tourists, who kept feeding them, everything from raw coconuts to oranges, apples, cookies and bread.

Touring around the caves, we saw many of the tenets of Hinduism explained in paintings and carvings along the walls and in dioramas. However, due to the damp, moist air in the caves, much of the artwork was showing its wear. But seeing the caves was still fascinating.

 



 



The pictures and dioramas were displayed in vivid color, representing everything from  the key deities and demons of Hindu as well as sage advice for healthy living. Much of the advice dispensed was either wise or amusing. 

We had a lovely afternoon touring around the caves, learning about Hindu traditions. Growing up in the US, I haven't met many (ok, any) people who profess to follow Hinduism, nor was I a religious studies major in college, so my knowledge of the belief is limited to what was included in a world history class in high school.

Traveling around Asia and seeing the  temples and shrines has been very educational. 


Saturday, September 29, 2012

Cambodia: the pink temple

When I arrived in Cambodia, I had very little knowledge of the country, city, area and temples I had traveled to see. But I learned a lot.
One of the epics carved into the walls of Angkor Wat. The
wall carvings were all "depicted about" epic stories and tales
from Hinduism.

The Angkor temples were primarily built as Hindu worship temples and the walls of each temple are covered with unique carvings of stories that are important to Hindu mythology. I learned all about the carvings from our tour guide, Piseth, who was very helpful. He spoke very good English and was very patient with our questions about the different legends or architectural wonders he was pointing out.
The apsara carved into the walls at
 Angkor Wat. Apsara were believed
 to be angelic dancerwomen who
accompanied the gods. In the carvings
"depicted about" the apsara, they
were very beautiful, with lots of jewelry
and ornate clothing. Also, big boobs.



For example, at Angkor Wat, which is a square, each wall has a different carving that is "depicted about" a story or epic from Hindu mythology. (That's how Piseth would say it: "Charlie and BF, this is a carved wall. This carving is depicted about the Hindu god Vishnu.) One of the famous stories in Hindu mythology is the churning of the ocean. It was shown in many places throughout multiple temples: on the entrance way to Angkor Thom, on the wall of Angkor Wat, within the Bayon, etc.

This story, along with the story of the Ramayana, an epic which includes details on prince Rama, appeared in several places, including Angkor Wat and Banteay Srei. 
Me in another doorway. Not sure
why I'm so into taking photos like this....

Banteay Srei is a much smaller temple, by comparison, and is the only temple in the complex built out of pink sandstone, rather than gray sandstone. There are many scholars who believe this temple to have been specifically for the women of the empire, due to its location (far out), smaller design and more intricate carvings and decor. We visited Banteay Srei the day after visiting Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and Ta Prohm. It was a little farther out of town, so it was a bit of a drive, but it was very beautiful.
Intricate carvings



Entry gates at Banteay Srei
Entry gates at Banteay Srei

Me asking our guide lots of questions.



The intricate carvings at Banteay Srei. Everything was
 more ornate,more detailed and more embellished
here than at the  bigger Angkor temples
 




Monday, September 10, 2012

Zip-off pants, FTW. Again.

The  orange t-shirt, brown zip-off pants and offending bare legs.
The top level of Angkor Wat is still used as a temple and as such, there are guidelines you must adhere to before climbing the 50+ stairs (at a 40 degree incline) to get to the top temple. Women with uncovered legs and shoulders are not allowed up. It was 98 degrees and 95% humidity....clearly I was wearing shorts the day we visited the temple. But because of my aforementioned affinity for looking down on things from up high, we returned to Angkor Wat the next day (sans guide, with appropriate attire) for additional exploring. 


The view from the top
The view from the top
After contemplating several options for "appropriate attire" for the temple, including taking a scarf I bought in the city market and tying it sarong style around my waist, I opted for my hiking pants. Also known as my zip-off pants. These bad boys were once the object of my ridicule, but have more than once earned my love and praise. Peru, for example. Mountains of western Washington. And now, Cambodia. I donned my brown zip-off pants (sans legs) and an orange t-shirt and headed off the day. When we arrived at the stairs to the top of the ruins, I promptly zipped on some pant legs, got clearance to pass and viewed the top of the structure. It was awesome. I descended, removed said legs and went on about my way. There was no way I was wearing more clothes than absolutely necessary: it was 104 degrees Fahrenheit that day. I know this because the refrigerated truck vendor guy who sold us some bottle water read us the temperature off his meat thermometer. It was SO HOT he was reading air temperature on a MEAT THERMOMETER.

Once again, my zip-off pants have proven to be worth their weight in gold.

Me in the top of Angkor Wat

Monday, September 3, 2012

Cambodia: the temples

Before you start thinking I'm lame and traveled halfway around the world to eat bacon at a hotel, let me tell you about the adventuring.
I'm standing on the roots of a tree that is growing in, over
 andaround the walls of the temples at Ta Prohm.  
That tree is GINORMOUS. Also, pretty crazy that the 
roots are growing together with the stones and not 
destroying/crumbling the walls.

When planning the trip, I knew I wanted to go to Angkor Wat and see the temple ruins. I had come to this conclusion based on a few things:

  • I like big things. Large architecture fascinates me.
  • The BF and I are standing in front of the 
    Bayon, where they think the royal
     family lived  (supposedly) in 1100.
  • I like old things. Everything in America is SO new and young. Even the old stuff in America is just not that old. Growing up in North Carolina, I'm well-versed in things like "circa houses" on the coast, the early fishing industry, colonial America, Pocahontas and the Lost Colony, etc. But even that stuff is only a couple hundred years old. Europe, Asia, South America...these are places where they have REALLY old things.

The faces that line the entrance gate to Angkor 
Thom. (the better looking faces have been 
restored by conservation efforts) The faces on 
either side of the entrance depict the gods 
and demons using a snake to churn the
ocean, according to Hindu mythology. 
This story is depicted in several places 
throughout the Angkor ruins, but nowhere
 as LARGE as the gates to Angkor Thom.

  •  I like looking down at stuff from up high. I like the window seat on airplanes, I love the Eiffel Tower and even though I'm supposed to be a too cool for school Seattleite, I think the Space Needle is pretty cool. (I dont love the $16 ticket fee to go to the top, but I do love the Needle.)


Now, these things may seem valid enough to warrant a trip halfway around the world, but there's one more. When I was a kid, I had this game called GeoSafari. It was a digital base/screen with different cards that you would put on the screen and it would ask you different questions and you had to match the answers. The topics were all geography/world history based, like US states and capitals, world countries and capitals, traditional garb, country flags, languages, etc. One of the cards was world landmarks and the card included Machu Picchu, the Tower of Pisa, Eiffel Tower, Great Wall of China and Angkor Wat, among others. Ever since then, I've had this weird interest in seeing all of those places I learned about as a kid. The interesting part is that even though I learned the basic stats on these places as a kid, I didnt really know much about them. Still dont. I'm not sure I could have told you Angkor Wat was in Cambodia until a few months ago. And I'm not sure I knew it was temple ruins until more recently than that. So it's with that lack of knowledge that I planned a trip to Angkor Wat.

I'm standing in a doorway at the Bayon. 
I like to take pictures standing in doorways. 
Not sure where that comes from....

With all that going on in my head, I was SUPER excited to see the temple ruins. All of them. In addition to Angkor Wat, there are dozens of other temples in the area, as part of the greater Angkor Archeological Park. Over the course of three days, we saw a LOT, but not everything.
I'm standing at the top of the inner temple of the Bayon, 
where the royal family spent most of their time.